Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
